Italy Continues Pastrami-less as NY's Best is Confiscated in Milan
TURIN,
ITALY, OCTOBER, 2002 - The FCI's CEO and Founder Dorothy Cann Hamilton
and Director of Marketing Rena Katz traveled to Turin, Italy
to participate in Slow Food's Salone del Gusto, a celebration of
artisanal food producers and traditional foods from the whole world.
Patrick Martins, the Director of Slow Food USA, had invited Dorothy
to bring one of New York's prized culinary delights -- prime deli
meats that had been selected by a star-studded panel at The FCI.
(See "New York's Deli Meats..." below.)
Over 135,000 people visited this year's Salone, with its 160,000
square foot exhibition space filled with every imaginable epicurean
delight. Side rooms accommodated specialized tastings of international
delicacies, ranging from multiple vintages, to the Fois Gras World
Cup to comparison samplings of wheels of artisan Parmesan cheese
at 12, 24 and 35 months of aging.
This
was an ideal audience to savor a meaty deli tasting, with mustard
and half-sours. But a funny thing happened on the way to Turin.
The prize-winning briskets from 2nd Avenue Deli, the corned beef
from Sarge's, and the pastrami from Stage Deli - 1,200 pounds in
all -- were confiscated at the Milan airport, even though permits
were in hand. Vietato is Vietato -- in essence, forget it. No further
explanation was available, and there was nothing to do but to uphold
New York's deli tradition with the best available at hand in Italy.
Patrick Martins managed to persuade a local butcher to cut a brisket
(not common in Italy), so that it could be steamed and sliced for
tastings. Zingerman's Deli from Detroit managed to get corned beef
across the border. But alas, no pastrami was to be had, cured or
found.
New York's Deli Meats:
A Star-Studded Panel Selects the Best To
select the best brisket, corned beef and pastrami to travel
to Turin, Italy for Slow Food's Salone del Gusto, Patrick
Martins, Director of Slow Food USA held a tasting at The FCI
with an esteemed panel of judges: Jeffrey Steingarten of Vogue;
Peter Hoffman of Savoy; Francesco Antonucci of Remi; Dan Barber
of Blue Hill; Mario Batali of Babbo; Michael Batterberry of
Food Arts; Alain Sailhac, André Soltner, and Dorothy
Cann Hamilton, all of The FCI; and Allen Katz and Patrick
Martins of Slow Food USA. The contenders were: 2nd Avenue
Deli, Stage Deli, Katz's Delicatessen, Carnegie Deli and Zingerman's
Deli.
In the end, the only two authentic New York products were Dorothy
and Patrick, but they had enough New York chutzpah to pull it off!
The Italian adventures of The FCI and Slow Food USA will continue
at the next Salone del Gusto, two years from now in Naples.
Italy is the site for Slow Food's celebration because this delectable
movement got its start in 1989, when an Italian activist named Carlo
Petrini learned of a plan to build a McDonald's in Rome. Instead
of striking out, he opted for the seductive powers of foods made
with care and time. He decided the best tactic was to find, savor,
and rescue dishes on the verge of extinction in a fast-food world.
There are now 70,000 members in more than 45 counries.
The French Culinary Institute, the pre-eminent American culinary
school, is an active supporter of Slow Food USA, partnering in resources,
benefit events, and other endeavors. In so doing, The FCI helps
to raise the standards -- and level of eating pleasure -- of Americans
nationwide.